Bears, volcanoes,
oil: Russia's remote east By Philip Bowring (IHT) Thursday, August 28, 2003
Otherwise, however, things in the region looks as though they are
picking up. The general improvement of conditions in Russia has taken a
long time to reach the remote east but President Vladimir Putin's
government has awakened to the economic potential and strategic importance
of regions that suffered especially severely from the collapse of the
Soviet system.
Russia's far east experienced depopulation as well as economic decline,
opening the gate for opportunistic Chinese merchants and migrants. Putin
himself has noted the need to reverse the drain of permanent Russian
settlers from the far east and their replacement, if at all, by migrants
from elsewhere. But that can only happen as the region's economy picks up.
That is just beginning.
Sakhalin has been a focus of foreign interest for some years but
Farkhutdinov was a major factor in turning interest into concrete results,
as well as altering attitudes to the Russian far east. He was instrumental
in attracting the oil majors, including Shell and Exxon Mobil, to invest
in Sakhalin's huge but remote oil and gas reserves. He was also forthright
in calling on the central government to make Russia more attractive to
foreign investment.
Farkhutdinov constantly emphasized the importance of good ties with the
United States. Energy for the United States from Russia's east was closer
than that from Middle East suppliers such as Saudi Arabia. Russia was also
a more stable supplier. He had a vision of the Russian east acting like
Australia, a thinly populated but advanced country that could be a stable
commodity supplier and partner for Japan, China and the United States.
Farkhutdinov died on a mission to increase cooperation in the region.
He was on his way from Kamchatka's capital, Petropavlovsk, a port city and
naval base that lies on a magnificent volcano-fringed bay, to
Severo-Kurilsk, one of the formerly Japanese islands that lie off the
southern tip of the Kamchatka Peninsula.
I flew part of this route last year in a similar Russian Mi-8
helicopter, the noisy but sturdy machine that is the workhorse throughout
the Russian far east, where roads are few and topography, climate and
sparse population make use of light aircraft inappropriate. The
20-passenger helicopters are reliable and crewed by experienced former
military pilots. But the weather can be atrocious. Helicopters can be
grounded for days at a time because of low cloud and the need for pilots
to negotiate their way around, rather than over, high mountains.
The journey south from Petropavlovsk takes one within sight of another
sign of the new Russia's progress and cooperation - a geo-thermal power
station built with loans from the European Bank for Reconstruction and
Development. The route toward Severo-Kurilsk then passes between two
extinct volcanoes before skirting the site of a foreign mining investment,
and on across a national park, home to hot springs, bears and fishing
lodges that are attracting increasing, if still small, numbers of hardy
but well-heeled tourists. Somewhere along the route Farkhutinov and his
party lost their lives, most likely due to an abrupt change in the weather
conditions.
His death could slow the revival of the region, but it seems unlikely
to stop it. Russia's own recovery apart, events since Sept. 11, 2001, have
made China and Japan as well as the United States conscious of the
attractions of Russian energy and the need to put history and territorial
claims into the background, at least for now. And despite everything,
increasing numbers of tourists seem set to brave the Mi-8 machines to
experience Kamchatka's unique combination of natural attractions - active
volcanoes, unsurpassed fishing, bear and reindeer hunting, skiing - and
almost total absence of people. |
Subscriptions E-mail Alerts | About the IHT : Privacy & Cookies : Contact the IHT |